1.   At JoJo, Chris Beischer braises red cabbage and chestnuts in goose fat until they become meltingly tender, then garnishes roast goose with the mixture.

2.   But the cans of snails and cans of rendered goose fat displayed nearby certainly stopped us in our tracks.

3.   Finished with both goose fat and butter, its flesh is silkier, its skin crisper than any bird I have ever eaten.

4.   Fried in the goose fat, perhaps.

5.   When I lived in France, I used to fry chunks of waxy potatoes in duck and goose fat.