21.   At Chanterelle, Michael Klug, the pastry chef, has created a huckleberry napoleon with such gorgeous shades of purple that it could make Martha Stewart weep.

22.   At Cafe Beulah, Marvin Woods, the executive chef, and Cynthia Long, the pastry chef, are encouraged to improvise as well.

23.   At Cibreo, Benedetta Vitali, co-owner and pastry chef, said the predominance of female waiters was accidental, but chefs are another matter.

24.   At Eleven Madison Park, Nicole Kaplan, the pastry chef, decided to use a pistachio paste made with salted roasted pistachios to fill a pithivier.

25.   At Stars, pastry chef Sara Spearin puts a slice in a martini glass and tops it with citrus sorbet.

26.   At Bouley Bakery, Bill Yosses, the pastry chef, also said he would just use a little strawberry puree to line his tart shells.

27.   At Hayes Street Grill in San Francisco, pastry chef Clifford Schulman makes a Sierra Beauty apple crisp with dried Muscat raisins.

28.   At the Tonic, Stephane Motir, the French-born pastry chef, makes one with passion fruit.

29.   At Vong, Pierre Reboul, the pastry chef, serves caramelized pineapple surrounded by a drizzle of tobacco caramel sauce.

30.   At Virot, Jehangir Mehta, the pastry chef, adds star anise powder and nutmeg, and then melted butter, molasses and brown sugar.