41.   Add the tomatoes, wine, tomato paste and sugar and cook over medium heat until the sauce is quite thick.

42.   Add to vegetable liquid, turn up heat and cook, stirring until sauce is clear and thickened.

43.   Adjust the seasonings, adding water if sauce is too thick, and set aside in a warm place.

44.   Add the chocolate and salt and heat the mixture over low heat, whisking, until the chocolate is melted and the sauce is smooth.

45.   Add the heavy cream, and reduce again by about half, until the sauce is just a little thicker than plain heavy cream.

46.   Add the oyster-sauce mixture, and continue to stir until the sauce is smooth and coats the vegetables.

47.   All these sauces are great, if different, with any of the three meats.

48.   Both sauces are excellent.

49.   But bottled sauces are easy enough to doctor up.

50.   But in South Carolina and parts of Georgia, barbecue sauce is often yellow-brown, based on mustard, not ketchup.