1.   And just as California wines have come into their own, Vermont cheese is gaining national acclaim.

2.   At least that wine comes from a prestigious commune.

3.   After all, fad wines come and go but cabernet sauvignon is the benchmark by which quality wine is judged.

4.   All the wines came from the Berkeley importer Kermit Lynch, a friend of Chez Panisse since its doors opened.

5.   But customers have a right to know for certain where the wine comes from and, if they like it, where to go buy some more.

6.   For many people, Alsatian wine comes as a revelation.

7.   For the Faiveleys, wine came first.

8.   His wine came from a secret recipe, with all that entails.

9.   In fact, some exceptional wines come out of the bigger wineries.

10.   In tastings, the wine comes across as flat and fruit-challenged compared with some of the zippier dry roses on the market today.