81.   In producing it, the joke goes, the chicken is involved, but the pig is committed.

82.   In the end, when elegance and luxury is the ideal, chicken is an act of bravery.

83.   In other words, the chicken was the most costly part of a chicken dinner.

84.   Is that meant to suggest that the chickens are free-range or simply that they are not in cages but in large enclosed areas where they stand beak to beak?

85.   It is best if the chicken is still warm, but not to worry if it has cooled off.

86.   King Ranch chicken is a staple at many cafeterias, especially on the days the buses come.

87.   Meat, for instance, is leaner and less forgiving in cooking, and chicken is not as flavorful as birds of the past.

88.   Milk-fed baby chickens are pan roasted at Gramercy Tavern and set on a sauce thickened with liver and a fondue of leeks.

89.   Moist soy sauce chicken was crisp and fragrant.

90.   Mix this into the pan, tossing the chicken pieces to coat, just until the chicken is no longer pink in the middle.