1.   At my home Loiseau began his summer menu with a cold melon soup seasoned with fresh tarragon and dry sherry.

2.   But the really brilliant dish is the dessert, a blancmange of almond milk set in a green melon soup and outfitted with a grinding or two of pepper.

3.   Spoon melon soup around.

4.   Terrance Brennan of Picholine, near Lincoln Center, adds figs and lavender to his Cavaillon melon soup.