11.  The steelhead then changed its mind and surged back up river, the fly line rooster-tailing upstream, and me frantically reeling up slack.

12.  There, El Nino was kinder, reigning in the harsh, galloping winds that often wreak havoc on fly lines.

13.  We passed around fly lines and leaders and reels ranging from a light model for trout to a big, brass baby designed for monster fish such as tarpon.

14.  We then settled back and waited, passing the time watching electric-blue damsel flies chase midges, while curious sunfish pecked at my floating fly line.