1.   The fresh chilies add a spicy flavor to the sauce.

2.   Cayenne or crushed red-pepper flakes, minced fresh chilies, or grated or prepared horseradish, to taste.

3.   For more heat, use three or four chipotles or fresh hot chilis.

4.   Garnish each plate with equal portions of shrimp, cucumber, laksa leaves and minced fresh chilies to taste.

5.   Garnish with fresh rosemary, whole fresh chilies or any non-toxic flower.

6.   Interesting flourishes include young garlic, a fresh hot chili, baby leeks, anchovies, olives, a splash of mild vinegar, mint, tarragon or chervil.

7.   Nuoc cham, a dipping sauce used throughout the country with most finger foods, is made with nuoc mam, fresh chili, garlic, lime and sugar.

8.   The herbal green one is made from fresh chilies, the herb epazote and hierba santa, a plant with big dark green leaves that have a haunting flavor.

9.   To roast, put fresh chilies under the broiler or hold over a gas flame and rotate until they are blackened and blistered all over.

10.   You can even mince some fresh chili, like jalapeno, and use that.