1.   American chefs who serve raw fish in their restaurants say that customers know what to expect with sushi.

2.   American chefs are taking full advantage.

3.   American chefs are taking argan oil well beyond Berber dishes.

4.   American chefs have followed that lead, adding Indian curry to the pumpkin soup and Sichuan peppercorns to sauteed pumpkin.

5.   American chefs have retaken the kitchen, ditching most of the continental dishes in favor of Southwestern fare.

6.   Almost no American chefs make their own for their restaurant creations.

7.   But the intercultural mingling that energizes American chefs tends to stump the French, for reasons that are not that hard to figure out.

8.   But when it comes to sanitation, there are details that American chefs may not know.

9.   Chefs around France are becoming enamored of its subtle virtues, as are American chefs, many of whom are encountering it for the first time.

10.   For American chefs are finally beginning to appreciate the many qualities of purslane, the juicy little weed so prized by the French.