81.   It is light and moist with little tastes of shallot, giblets, bits of water chestnut and shiitake mushrooms, and a whisper of fish sauce.

82.   It is spiced with ginger, garlic and nuoc mam, the ubiquitous fish sauce.

83.   Like Gorgonzola and tofu, which are also fermented, fish sauce is something you are either brought up with or have to get used to.

84.   Look for kaffir lime leaves, fish sauce and lemon grass at a local Asian market.

85.   Leftover chicken is often added to it, but fish sauce makes seafood a better call.

86.   Meanwhile, combine the shrimp, shallots, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and oil in a mixing bowl.

87.   Mix in fish sauce and set aside.

88.   Moosh together the garlic, pepper, soy sauce and fish sauce.

89.   Mix ground roasted chili, fish sauce, sugar and lime juice.

90.   Nam pla, the salty Asian fish sauce, would add authenticity but is hardly essential.