71.   Great wine list.

72.   He closed up shop on the Coast and took over the Washington kitchen to produce inventive food and a loaded wine list.

73.   Grignolino, originally a Piemontese grape, is on the red wine list, thanks to the late Joe Heitz.

74.   He had worked on the wine list until well past midnight the night before.

75.   He also developed an extended wine list, unusual in Chinese restaurants, and chose a sleek modern decor that avoided Chinese cliches.

76.   He added that he wished he could find them on more restaurant wine lists.

77.   He ignored the wine list to stick with water.

78.   He rates a greeting nonetheless because he is passionately dedicated to wine and his long and carefully prepared wine list reflects that.

79.   He said he might make a second request to several restaurants that did not answer but that are known to have good wine lists.

80.   Here are some of the best on New York wine lists.