41.   And sometimes the dishes are not as refined as they should be, such as the Chinese lacquered duck in a Peking pancake.

42.   And when it was invented back in the Stone Age, it served that purpose, primarily because there were no dishes to get messed up.

43.   And, yes, that delectable dish labeled caruru was a kind of shrimp-and-okra gumbo.

44.   Another mushroom-rich dish is brandy-flamed filet au poivre with chanterelles sauteed with garlic, thyme and Swiss chard.

45.   Another wildly impressive dish was Dover sole with a curry leaf emulsion.

46.   Another dish to try is rosy barbecued salmon swabbed with a Chinese mustard sauce and accompanied by stir-fried greens.

47.   Another famous Nagasaki dish is shippoku, a multicourse meal that borrows from Europe and China.

48.   As I later learned from Burmese cooks living in the United States, those dishes had been authentically seasoned and only slightly altered to suit Western tastes.

49.   As some dishes are better with dried pasta and some are better with fresh, understanding the strengths and weaknesses of each is key to using pasta properly.

50.   At Bouley Bakery, the kitchen follows the mashed potato recipe of the French chef Joel Robuchon, and the resulting dish is a creamy delight.