21.   Along one wall, Arabs sit in a row sipping mint tea and cardamom-laced coffee served from brass urns heated by coals.

22.   But after nightfall, Cairenes flock to open-air cafes, drinking mint tea and smoking shisha, a traditional Middle Eastern waterpipe.

23.   But at nightfall, Cairo residents flock to open-air cafes, drinking mint tea and smoking shisha, a traditional Middle Eastern waterpipe.

24.   During our three-day hike, we met dozens of hospitable Berbers who offered to serve as guides or make us a pot of mint tea.

25.   The only bustle comes from the kitchen, where mint tea and thick, black coffee are brewed.