21.   The result is very much like the classic duxelles, in which fresh mushrooms and their scraps are cooked only until their essence remains.

22.   When butter melts, add fresh mushrooms.

23.   Wipe the fresh mushrooms with a damp cloth, and with a small brush or towel remove any dirt from the caps and stems.

24.   While the soup cooks, cut the fresh mushrooms into bite-size pieces.

25.   Wok chicken breast strips with sliced fresh mushrooms, broccoli flowerettes and thinly sliced carrots and sauce with pesto, a little stock and a little chopped fresh basil.

26.   But fresh mushrooms are available only during the rainy season between May and August.

27.   Slices of pinkish-beige roast duck nestled among purplecabbage leaves, fresh sliced mushrooms and various shades of verdant greenleaves on a huge plate.