11. Farther west, waves break against a rocky coastline. 12. I had breakfast every morning on my terrace overlooking the beach, and at night went to sleep to the endlessly soothing sound of waves breaking on the shore. 13. Often the wave would break and roll toward shore just yards away from a frantic paddler leaving him or her behind, bobbing on the roiling sea. 14. On the windward side, waves broke on a rough coral shore. 15. Some did, and they could actually sit in small hot puddles trickling down the rocks while gentle cool waves broke around them. 16. That first day the counselors swam among us while we learned the basics, including judging exactly where a wave would break. 17. The ocean was relentless, waves broke constantly, close in or far out, and there was always paddling to do, lining up or striving for position. 18. The sandy beach adjoins a vast concrete pool, where waves will break once they get the drains fixed. 19. The sun is out, the waves are breaking and people are relaxing on the sand -- clothed warmly from head to foot, but relaxed. 20. Time to appreciate the way each wave breaks differently on the Pacific. |