91.   Ms. Hertz and Finck removed labels from the chickens before cooking and did not disclose which chicken was which until after the tasting.

92.   Mix well and cook covered over low to moderate heat for about one hour, until the chicken is very tender.

93.   Not only are chickens more numerous than ever, they are also bigger.

94.   Now, a roast chicken can be stupidly simple, but it can also be magnificent.

95.   One cook wrote the chicken is a family favorite she has made numerous times.

96.   Poached and roasted chicken is finished not with cream but with a ginger, egg and lemon infusion, light and bright and entirely appropriate.

97.   Pour in stock, cover and cook until chicken is tender.

98.   Proprietor Lane, who sometimes mans the cashier window, said his chickens were free-range.

99.   Plain yellow onions are fine, any decent butter or oil will do, and of course a good chicken is essential.

100.   Roast chicken is a popular takeout dish at the Costco warehouse store in Sunset Park, Brooklyn.