1.   BASIL With its large emerald green leaves, basil is used prolifically as a garnish as well as for flavor.

2.   If using dried basil, add now.

3.   If using the basil, sprinkle over the crisps for the last minute of cooking.

4.   If you are using chopped basil, smear it over the bottom of the dish.

5.   If using fresh basil, sprinkle on top as a garnish.

6.   If using fresh basil, stir it into onion-garlic mixture when onions are done.

7.   Using both basils, in a proportion of one to one, added the mysterious note of cinnamon and sandalwood we were after without upsetting the balance.

8.   Use basil with lots of flavor, preferably Ligurian basil with its true basil flavor rather than the taste of anise or mint.