1.   The kitchen smelt of steamed fish.

2.   But the best part of the meal was a steamed whole fish, prepared with the head and all, dazzling with its silver skin in dark soy sauce.

3.   Caught up in the grilling decade, I had almost forgotten how delicate and sweet, how perfect, a freshly caught steamed fish can be.

4.   For the next few weeks, the staff at East Ocean City will serve steamed whole fish as fast as they can get them from tank to table.

5.   Following their directions for simple steamed fish, for example, was a humbling lesson.

6.   Garnish, and serve with steamed fish.

7.   It would have been any other steamed fish.

8.   Only steamed white fish would showcase the sauce more.

9.   Other good bets, he said, are simple Cantonese steamed fish, home-style pork belly with preserved mustard greens or Shanghai red-cooked pork shoulder.

10.   Put a pat of anchovy butter on some steamed fish for an instant sauce.